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Looking at my reflection, I can see myself in enormous gilded pantaloons, seen exclusively in my view. Youngsters play in a water feature acting as ocean creatures, while adjacent resides a talking pea in a showcase, alongside a imposing pile of mattresses. It represents the domain of H.C. Andersen (1805-1875), among the 19th century’s most beloved writers. I’m in the city of Odense, situated in Funen in the south of Denmark, to discover the writer's enduring legacy in his home town many decades after his death, and to discover a few magical stories of my own.

The Museum: H.C. Andersen's House

HC Andersens Hus is the town's cultural center honoring the storyteller, incorporating his original residence. A museum representative explains that in previous versions of the museum there was minimal emphasis on the author's tales. His personal history was studied, but The Ugly Duckling were missing. For visitors who visit this place in search of fairytale wonder, it was not quite enough.

The renovation of downtown Odense, redirecting a primary street, provided the opportunity to reconsider how the renowned native could be celebrated. A major architecture competition granted the architects from Japan the renowned designers the project, with the innovative curatorial vision at the heart of the layout. The remarkable timber-clad museum with connected curving spaces launched to great fanfare in 2021. “Our goal was to build a place where we move beyond simply describing the writer, but we communicate similarly to Andersen: with wit, irony and outlook,” says the curator. Even the gardens follow this philosophy: “It’s a garden for strollers and for giants, it's planned to make you feel small,” he notes, a goal realized by clever planting, manipulating verticality, proportion and numerous twisting trails in a surprisingly compact space.

Andersen's Impact

The author penned several personal accounts and often contradicted himself. The museum embraces this concept seriously; frequently the perspectives of his companions or snippets of written messages are shown to subtly challenge the his narrative of happenings. “The author is the guide, but his account isn't always accurate,” says the curator. The result is a compelling rapid journey of his personal story and work, thought processes and favorite tales. It’s provocative and whimsical, for mature visitors and kids, with a additional underground fantasy realm, the fictional village, for the smallest guests.

Visiting the Town

In the real world, the small city of the municipality is charming, with historic pathways and old wooden houses finished in vibrant hues. The Andersen legacy is everywhere: the traffic lights display the storyteller with his iconic characteristic hat, brass footprints offer a free guided stroll, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Annually in August this focus peaks with the yearly storytelling event, which honors the writer's impact through art, performance, stage shows and music.

Recently, the seven-day celebration had numerous performances, the majority were complimentary. While visiting Odense, I meet artistic acrobats, spooky creatures and an author double sharing tales. I experience empowering poetry and witness an amazing nocturnal display with graceful performers lowering from the town hall and dangling from a construction equipment. Upcoming events this year are lectures, family art workshops and, extending the storytelling legacy past the author, the city’s regular Magic Days festival.

Every excellent fairytale destinations require a fortress, and Fyn boasts over a hundred manors and estates around the area

Cycling and Exploration

Similar to most of Denmark, bikes are the best way to get about in Odense and a “bike path” meanders through the urban core. From my accommodation, I ride to the complimentary harbour-side swimming pool, then into the countryside for a loop around the nearby islet, a tiny landmass joined by a bridge to the larger island. Town dwellers have outdoor meals here following their day, or enjoy a quiet hour fishing, aquatic activities or swimming.

In town, I eat at a local eatery, where the culinary offerings is based on the writer's motifs and narratives. The literary work the national ode appears when I visit, and owner the host recites passages, translated into English, as he serves every dish. Such encounters commonplace in my days in the city, the local residents appreciate narratives and it appears sharing tales is constantly on the menu here.

Manor House Visits

Every excellent enchanted locations require a castle, and the island features numerous historic homes and manor houses across the island. Taking day trips from town, I visit the historic fortress, Europe’s best-preserved moated palace. While much of it are open to visitors, Egeskov is also the private residence of the aristocratic owners and his wife, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I ponder if she would notice a small legume through a stack of {mattresses